Friday, June 28, 2013

Big Sur





Pacific Coast: Watsonville to Morro Bay map
Today we drive the most exciting part of the Pacific Coast Highway.  Its only about 3 hours (hopefully) of driving, but it will be a long day with stops and we have timed tickets for Hearst Castle near the end of the day so we have to stay on schedule.

Catch the highlights of what we will see on this video.




First, we pass through Carmel-by-the-Sea (home of Clint Eastwood and Doris Day).  Lots of art galleries and glitz but we will just pass through probably stopping only to see the Carmel Mission.  The Carmel Mission was the most important of all the California missions, serving as home, headquarters, and final resting place of Father Junipero Serra, the Franciscan priest who established Carmel and many of the 20 other California missions.

\Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo
The mission, first established on June 3, 1770, in nearby Monterey, (near the native village of Tamo), was named for Charles Borromeo, Archbishop of Milan, Italy.  In May, 1771, the viceroy approved Serra's petition to relocate the mission to its current location near the present-day town of Carmel-by-the-Sea. In 1794, the population reached its peak of 927, but by 1823 the total had dwindled to 381. On November 20, 1818, French privateer Hipólito Bouchard raided the Monterey Presidio, before moving on to other Spanish installations in the south. The mission was in ruins when the Roman Catholic Church regained control of it in 1863. In 1884 Father Angel Casanova undertook the work of restoration. In 1961, the mission was designated as a minor basilica by Pope John XXIII. As a result of Downie's dedicated efforts to restore the buildings, the Carmel mission church is one of the most authentically restored of all the mission churches in California. In 1987, Pope John Paul II visited the mission as part of his U.S. tour.

Stretching 90 miles south of Carmel from Point Lobos all the way to Hearst Castle, Big Sur is one of the most memorable sections of coastline on the planet, with 5,000-foot-tall mountains rising up from the Pacific Ocean. Early Spanish missionaries dubbed it El País Grande del Sur, the “Big Country of the South,” and the rugged land has resisted development or even much of a population—the current total of around 1,500 is roughly the same as it was in 1900. The highway was finally cut across the very steep cliffs in 1937 after 20 years of convict labor and several fatalities. Named the state’s first scenic route, so dedicated by Lady Bird Johnson in 1966, it’s an incredible trip.  In 1983, the biggest storm in recent memory closed the road for over a year, and in 1998, 70 miles of it were blocked for over four months; sections of it are closed almost every year.


Pacific Coast Highway y Big Sur
Bixby Creek Bridge
The Bixby Creek Bridge, constructed in 1932 and, thankfully, seismically retrofitted in 1996 is one of the most photographed sites along the way.  While it looks fragile, its designed to hold six times its expected weight.

Trees
Roughly a half mile south of Big Sur village is Pfeiffer–Big Sur State Park. This beautiful park features redwoods, conifers, oaks, sycamores, cottonwoods, maples, alders and willows - plus open meadows. Wildlife includes black-tail deer, gray squirrels, raccoons, skunks, and birds, such as water ouzels and belted kingfishers.

We need to see some redwoods!  Diana thinks these pictured here are big enough.

Nepenthe
One of the most popular and long-lived stopping points along the Big Sur coast, Nepenthe is a rustic bar and restaurant offering good food and great views from atop a rocky headland a thousand feet above the Pacific. The hilltop where Nepenthe now stands was previously the site of a rustic cabin that Orson Welles bought for his wife, Rita Hayworth, in 1944. Named for the mythical drug that causes one to forget all sorrows, Nepenthe looks like something out of a 1960s James Bond movie, built of huge boulders and walls of plate glass. 








 Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park includes one truly beautiful sight: a slender waterfall that drops crisply down into a nearly circular turquoise-blue cove. This is the only waterfall in California that plunges directly into the Pacific.  From the parking area, east of the highway, a short trail leads under the road to a fine view of the waterfall, while another leads to the remnants of a pioneer mill, complete with a preserved Pelton wheel. Other routes climb through redwood groves up to the chaparral-covered slopes of the Santa Lucia Mountains.


At the south end of Big Sur, the mountains flatten out and turn inland, and the coastline becomes rolling, open-range ranch land. High on a hill above Hwy-1 stands the coast’s one totally unique attraction, Hearst Castle. Located 65 miles south of Big Sur village , Hearst Castle is the sort of place that you really have to see to believe, though simple numbers—144 rooms, including 36 bedrooms—do give a sense of its scale. Hearst spent 25 years working on his “castle,” building, rebuilding, and filling room after room with furniture. Its the second most visited site in California after Disneyland.

Hearts inherited the land from his father George, who struck it rich in mining in South Dakota (we visited his mine). They have a number of different tours, you only get to see a few things on each tour.  We're taking the introductory tour which gets us into a few of the main rooms.


Indoor Pool
Outdoor Pool





Library
Dining Hall


Just north of San Simeon, there is an elephant seal rookery at Piedras Blancas.  Hunted nearly to extinction for their oil-rich blubber, elephant seals have made a remarkable comeback. Protected by the Marine Mammal Protection Act, they are expanding their range outward from remote islands and are now colonizing selected mainland beaches such as Piedras Blancas in the southern range of Big Sur, near San Simeon.n the 1880's northern elephant seals were thought to be extinct, harvested by shore whalers and sealers for their blubber. The oil obtained from elephant seals is second in quality only to the sperm whale. A small group of between 20-100 elephant seals that bred on Guadalupe Island, off Baja California, survived the ravages of the seal hunts. Protected first by Mexico and later by the United States, they have steadily expanded their range. Today they are protected from hunting and harassment by the Marine Mammal Protection Act of 1972.
Elephant seals began hauling out on a secluded beach just south of the lighthouse in 1990. It was an extraordinary occurrence that delighted the public traveling Highway 1 north of San Simeon.
By the end of the 1880’s they were thought to be extinct. Whalers and sealers had hunted them for their blubber. A small colony, between 20 to 100 individuals managed to survive and took up residence on Guadalupe Island, off Baja, California.
All of the elephant seals on the West Coast of the continent are descended from this group.
Some elephant seals are always present at Piedras Blancas, but the most interesting time to visit is during breeding season from November through February. Beaches are jammed with chubby females giving birth, little black pups
suckling, and huge blubbery males doing battle.
Male seals begin to arrive in late November and stake out their positions on the beach. Dominant bulls, the ones that have the best chance to mate with the most females, threaten away lesser males and take up residence waiting for the females to arrive.
One of the most exciting things to witness is a battle between two of these large bulls. When approached by another male, the resident bull will rear up on his hindquarters, throw his head back, and roar out a threat. His large bulbous nose dips down into his gaping mouth. Then each bull rears up and with great force they slam their bodies at each other, slashing away with their large canine teeth. Fights can last a few minutes or go on for hours. Usually the battle ends with one bull being forced into the water or backing away submissively.
Pregnant females arrive on the beaches in December and, after four or five days, give birth to one pup that arrives thin, wrinkled and black. Most pups begin to suckle soon after birth. Elephant seal milk is the richest of all mammals with a high percentage of fat. The pups gain weight quickly on this, doubling and quadrupling their size in less than a month.
Nursing lasts for about 28 days. In the last three to five days the females are ready for breeding. Now the alpha bull takes advantage of his position to mate with the most females. Within a month after giving birth, females are impregnated. A little more than a month after arriving at the rookery, the female heads out to sea leaving her now plump, molting pup on shore.
- See more at: http://www.slovisitorsguide.com/Cambria-San-Simeon/visit-the-elephant-seals.html#sthash.LMf9Y4ym.dpuf
Elephant seals began hauling out on a secluded beach just south of the lighthouse in 1990. It was an extraordinary occurrence that delighted the public traveling Highway 1 north of San Simeon.
By the end of the 1880’s they were thought to be extinct. Whalers and sealers had hunted them for their blubber. A small colony, between 20 to 100 individuals managed to survive and took up residence on Guadalupe Island, off Baja, California.
All of the elephant seals on the West Coast of the continent are descended from this group.
Some elephant seals are always present at Piedras Blancas, but the most interesting time to visit is during breeding season from November through February. Beaches are jammed with chubby females giving birth, little black pups
suckling, and huge blubbery males doing battle.
Male seals begin to arrive in late November and stake out their positions on the beach. Dominant bulls, the ones that have the best chance to mate with the most females, threaten away lesser males and take up residence waiting for the females to arrive.
One of the most exciting things to witness is a battle between two of these large bulls. When approached by another male, the resident bull will rear up on his hindquarters, throw his head back, and roar out a threat. His large bulbous nose dips down into his gaping mouth. Then each bull rears up and with great force they slam their bodies at each other, slashing away with their large canine teeth. Fights can last a few minutes or go on for hours. Usually the battle ends with one bull being forced into the water or backing away submissively.
Pregnant females arrive on the beaches in December and, after four or five days, give birth to one pup that arrives thin, wrinkled and black. Most pups begin to suckle soon after birth. Elephant seal milk is the richest of all mammals with a high percentage of fat. The pups gain weight quickly on this, doubling and quadrupling their size in less than a month.
Nursing lasts for about 28 days. In the last three to five days the females are ready for breeding. Now the alpha bull takes advantage of his position to mate with the most females. Within a month after giving birth, females are impregnated. A little more than a month after arriving at the rookery, the female heads out to sea leaving her now plump, molting pup on shore.
Bull elephant seals fight over territory on the seashore north of Cambria
- See more at: http://www.slovisitorsguide.com/Cambria-San-Simeon/visit-the-elephant-seals.html#sthash.LMf9Y4ym.dpuf
Elephant seals began hauling out on a secluded beach just south of the lighthouse in 1990. It was an extraordinary occurrence that delighted the public traveling Highway 1 north of San Simeon.
By the end of the 1880’s they were thought to be extinct. Whalers and sealers had hunted them for their blubber. A small colony, between 20 to 100 individuals managed to survive and took up residence on Guadalupe Island, off Baja, California.
All of the elephant seals on the West Coast of the continent are descended from this group.
Some elephant seals are always present at Piedras Blancas, but the most interesting time to visit is during breeding season from November through February. Beaches are jammed with chubby females giving birth, little black pups
suckling, and huge blubbery males doing battle.
Male seals begin to arrive in late November and stake out their positions on the beach. Dominant bulls, the ones that have the best chance to mate with the most females, threaten away lesser males and take up residence waiting for the females to arrive.
One of the most exciting things to witness is a battle between two of these large bulls. When approached by another male, the resident bull will rear up on his hindquarters, throw his head back, and roar out a threat. His large bulbous nose dips down into his gaping mouth. Then each bull rears up and with great force they slam their bodies at each other, slashing away with their large canine teeth. Fights can last a few minutes or go on for hours. Usually the battle ends with one bull being forced into the water or backing away submissively.
Pregnant females arrive on the beaches in December and, after four or five days, give birth to one pup that arrives thin, wrinkled and black. Most pups begin to suckle soon after birth. Elephant seal milk is the richest of all mammals with a high percentage of fat. The pups gain weight quickly on this, doubling and quadrupling their size in less than a month.
Nursing lasts for about 28 days. In the last three to five days the females are ready for breeding. Now the alpha bull takes advantage of his position to mate with the most females. Within a month after giving birth, females are impregnated. A little more than a month after arriving at the rookery, the female heads out to sea leaving her now plump, molting pup on shore.
Bull elephant seals fight over territory on the seashore north of Cambria
- See more at: http://www.slovisitorsguide.com/Cambria-San-Simeon/visit-the-elephant-seals.html#sthash.LMf9Y4ym.dpuf

Hotel Perched on a Cliff Above the Beach
 After Hearst Castle we'll drive through the towns of Cambria and Morro Bay before stopping for the night in Pismo Beach.  They hotel room will have more than twice the space for about haft the price of the one in Monterey.



View from the Hotel





































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